After all of our adventures in Dingle, it was time to head out for our next stop—Ballynahinch Castle, located in the heart of Connemara in County Galway.
We had a beautiful ride from Dingle, eventually making our way into Connemara, an area known for its mountains, lakes, bogs and some of the wildest scenery in Ireland.
And, of course, there were more of those narrow, winding Irish roads.
At this point I think we’ve finally accepted that when Google Maps says a road goes somewhere, that doesn’t necessarily mean it looks like a road WE would normally choose to drive on.
But we’re getting pretty good at them!
As we got closer to Ballynahinch, the scenery became even more beautiful, and then we finally reached the entrance to the castle.
When you pull through those gates, it feels like you’ve been transported back in time.
Huge stone pillars, a large iron gate and a narrow road winding through beautiful landscaping, flowers, lakes, woods and along the river.
Think Downton Abbey—Irish style.
Ballynahinch sits on a 700-acre estate surrounded by woodland, rivers and lakes, with more than 10 miles of walking trails throughout the property.
And the history here goes WAY back.
The name Ballynahinch comes from the Irish Baile na hInse, meaning “household of the island,” referring to an old O’Flaherty castle that once stood on an island in Ballynahinch Lake.
One of the most famous names connected to the estate is Grace O’Malley, Ireland’s legendary 16th-century Pirate Queen. She married Donal O’Flaherty, whose family controlled this part of Connemara, and the old island castle became part of her family’s story.
The building we’re staying in isn’t actually that original castle. The present Ballynahinch was built by the Martin family as an inn in the 1700s and later became their family home. It was enlarged and changed over the years into the castle-like country house you see today.
So technically we’re staying in a grand old country house rather than a medieval castle.
But it says CASTLE on the sign, there’s a four-poster bed in my room and men in suits are carrying people’s luggage.
I’m calling it a castle.
The place was bustling when we arrived—people checking in and out, golf carts cruising around and men in smart suits ready to help you with anything you might need.
Is this what living the royal life feels like?
Because if it is, I like it!
As soon as we walked through the main entrance, we could smell a fire burning. To the left was a cozy sitting area with a big fireplace, comfy chairs and that wonderful smell of a wood fire.
Reception was to the right, so we checked in, got our keys, confirmed our dinner reservations and headed off to find our rooms.
There IS an elevator.
Unfortunately, it only went down one floor, which happened to be where John and Kelly’s room was.
Off they went.
Joey and I?
We had to schlep our luggage down two flights of stairs.
I know Joey curses me every time he has to carry my luggage.
I really have gotten so much better about packing over the years, but somehow I still seem to bring too much.
Maybe my clothes are just abnormally heavy??
Yeah.
I’m going with that.
After the stairs, we wandered down a long hallway until we finally found our room.
And then…
WOW!
Suddenly all that schlepping was worth it.
The room was huge, with a massive four-poster bed, a fireplace and two large doors opening onto our own terrace with a little bistro set and a beautiful view overlooking the river.
Now THIS is living!
There was only one little problem.
It was HOT.
Kelly and John’s room was hot too, so we checked with reception.
Sorry. No air-conditioning in this section of the castle.
We could open the windows or terrace doors, but we were warned about something called midges.
For those unfamiliar with midges, think Irish version of no-see-ums.
Tiny.
Biting.
Annoying.
IYKYK. 😩
We left the terrace doors open for a while that afternoon, but as dusk got closer, those babies got shut right up.
I’ll take hot over being eaten alive by nasty little bugs I can barely see!
Once we got settled, Kelly, John and I decided to take a walk around the grounds while Joey took advantage of the quiet room for a little nap.
The grounds are absolutely stunning.
One of my favorite areas was the large walled garden, which was still full of flowers, fruits, vegetables and herbs.
I’ve mentioned the flowers before, but Ireland really is something special when it comes to gardens.
Maybe it’s the mild temperatures. Maybe it’s all that rain we’re always complaining about. Maybe it’s the soil.
Whatever the secret is, the flowers LOVE it here.
Everywhere we’ve driven, there have been wildflowers spilling along the roadsides, hydrangeas practically the size of small trees, colorful gardens tucked around cottages and huge displays of flowers around hotels and old estates.
And Ballynahinch was no exception.
The old stone walls surrounding the garden actually help create a warmer little microclimate inside, allowing them to grow an impressive variety of fruits, vegetables and herbs. Even better, much of what they grow ends up right in the castle kitchens.
Now THAT’S farm-to-table.
We wandered through the garden and eventually stopped at the little Garden Café, right inside the walled garden. It’s a cute little spot where you can grab a coffee or a sweet treat and sit outside enjoying the flowers and the peace and quiet.
We opted for a slightly different kind of sweet treat.
Seaweed ice cream.
Yup.
Seaweed.
And before you make that face…
It was delicious!
Just three simple ingredients, nothing artificial and SOOO yummy.
While we were there, we also got a chance to meet George, the resident Eurasian robin.
We were told George is quite the little ham. He loves attention and apparently isn’t the least bit camera shy.
And honestly?
Can you blame him?
Isn’t he cute?!
After our treats, Johnny headed back while Kelly and I decided to explore one of the walking trails leading toward the lake and saunas.
And that’s where we spotted the ruins out on the island.
Remember Richard Martin, whose family once owned Ballynahinch?
He was an Irish politician nicknamed “Humanity Dick” because he was one of the earliest and most outspoken advocates for animal welfare. In 1822, he helped get one of Britain’s first animal-protection laws passed, and he was involved in the movement that led to the founding of what became the RSPCA.
But apparently Humanity Dick had his own way of dealing with people who weren’t very humane to animals.
According to local tradition, the old tower on the island became known as “Dick Martin’s Prison.” Martin supposedly locked up tenants there who had mistreated animals.
Imagine being asked what landed you in prison.
Horse thief?
No.
Robbery?
No.
Kicked the cow.
I have no idea how much of that story has grown with the telling over the last 200 years, but I like it.
And it certainly makes that old ruin sitting out in the middle of the lake a lot more interesting!
Our trail eventually brought us back to the main road, which we followed back toward the castle.
By then it was time for a little rest before getting ourselves ready for dinner at the Fisherman’s Pub.
The pub has two rooms, including a cozy barroom with just a few tables, a big fireplace and the kind of old fishing-lodge décor that fits this place perfectly.
We had a quick drink at the bar before being shown to our table.
And once again…
The food was delicious.
Remember that walled garden I mentioned?
Well, all those vegetables and herbs aren’t just there to look pretty. The garden supplies fresh produce and herbs to the castle’s restaurants, including the Fisherman’s Pub.
So some of what we had been admiring in the garden that afternoon may very well have ended up on our plates that evening.
Talk about fresh!
After dinner, we called it an early night.
Between driving, exploring and sightseeing, these days can wear you out!
Besides, we had another destination waiting for us tomorrow.
We’re heading north to Westport, a colorful little town in County Mayo.
We’ll see what we find there.
See you down the road!
Leave a Reply